Where (and how) to lock your bike

A good lock is only as good as how and where you use it. Most stolen bikes weren't unlocked — they were locked badly, or locked to something that didn't actually hold. Here's what works.

1. Lock the frame, not just the wheel.

Your U-lock should go through the bike frame and around the rack. Wheels can be removed in seconds; if you only secured a wheel, you've left the rest of the bike loose.

2. Use both wheels with two locks.

A U-lock on the frame plus a cable through the front wheel keeps both wheels with the bike. Cable locks alone aren't worth using — bolt cutters go through them in seconds.

3. Fill the U-lock space.

A U-lock with empty space inside the U is easier to leverage open. Pack it tight against the rack and frame so there's no room for a tool to fit.

4. Lock to something solid.

Look for inverted-U or post-and-ring bike racks, or solid metal sign posts. Avoid wooden posts (cuttable), thin poles (a thief can lift the bike over the top), and anything not anchored to the ground. Trees are a no — both because the lock can damage the tree and because trees are often less sturdy than they look.

5. When indoors is an option, take it.

If your workplace has indoor bike parking, use it. Many MBTA stations have secure bike cages that require a CharlieCard for access. Cambridge and Somerville also have plenty of street-level racks; check Google Maps for "bike parking" near your destination.

6. Register and track.

Register your bike at bikeindex.org (free, helps recovery if it's stolen) and take a photo of the serial number. Hide an AirTag or Tile tracker somewhere discreet — taped under the saddle, dropped inside the seat tube, or tucked into a tail-light housing. If the bike walks off, you can find it. Remove lights and quick-release accessories when you park.